Exploring in a Free Spirit Campervan the Beara Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry
Into the Wild with Scorch
After two unforgettable days exploring Cobh and Mizen Head, Cath and her campervan Scorch continued westward.
The rugged beauty of the Beara Peninsula and the iconic Ring of Kerry awaited. These areas, filled with dramatic landscapes, unique wildlife, and hidden gems, offered Cath the chance to fully embrace the freedom and spontaneity of campervan travel.
With Scorch as her trusty companion, the adventure was as much about the journey as the destinations.
Day 3: Discovering the Beara Peninsula
“Today was all about exploring the Beara Peninsula. All recommended by Nicky, the owner of Glengarriff Campsite – he really nailed it!”
The day began in Glengarriff, a village nestled on Bantry Bay, where Cath was introduced to the beauty of the Beara Peninsula.
Her first adventure was a ferry ride to Garinish Island, known for its lush gardens designed by Harold Peto.
The island’s Italianate gardens are home to exotic plants, thanks to the warming influence of the Gulf Stream.
However, it wasn’t just the flora that caught Cath’s eye. “The big treat en route were seals basking and a WHITE TAILED EAGLE sitting in a tree. They are now breeding on the island.”
Returning to the mainland, Cath set out on the Ring of Beara, a lesser-known but equally stunning counterpart to the Ring of Kerry.
Her journey took her to Dursey Island, accessible by Ireland’s only cable car. Though Cath didn’t take the ride, she spent time watching the waters of Dursey Sound, where her binoculars revealed an incredible sight: “I was watching a BASKING SHARK!!! Wtf!!”
The day continued with a stop at the Dzogchen Beara Buddhist Centre, a tranquil spot overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Known for its serene atmosphere, the centre also boasts a café with spectacular views, where Cath enjoyed coffee and cake. “Lots of recommendations for this place as the cake was yum, but the view was superb.”
The drive back included a challenging but rewarding detour through Eyeries, a village famous for its brightly painted houses.
Headed back up the north side of the peninsula stopping off for a short walk on the beach at Allihies..
‘’Took a slightly wrong turn at Eyeries ended up on a really narrow, windy, up-and-down route that was at least 10km of hairy driving but exhilarating too..’’
The narrow, winding roads led to some unexpected thrills. “Kept seeing signs saying THINK! Chicane … stopped to talk to a walker at one point & they asked me if I was doing a recce for the rally on Sunday! Explained a lot!”
The final leg of the day was the Healy Pass, a mountain route offering panoramic views of the peninsula. “Oh my word. What a spectacular landscape—hills and valleys, wow!”
Learn more about the Beara Peninsula
Discover Garinish Island
Day 4: The Iconic Ring of Kerry and Skellig Ring
‘’Gorgeous weather yet again. How lucky am I?’’
“Ring of Kerry with a detour round the Skellig Ring. If you love driving and breathtaking scenery, then you just have to do this trip.”
The next day brought perfect weather for exploring the Ring of Kerry, a 179-kilometre circular route that takes travellers through some of Ireland’s most picturesque landscapes. Cath’s first stop was the Skellig Ring, a less-travelled extension of the route.
Her journey included a visit to the Skellig Chocolate Factory, where she sampled unique flavours like dark chocolate with seaweed and salt. “Tastings available, so I obviously partook. Dark chocolate with salt & seaweed.”
From there, Cath ventured to Valentia Island, connected to the mainland by a bridge.
‘’Lots of bird life today – swallows, choughs, stonechats, skylarks, thrushes & what looked like a reddish small hawk of some kind.’’
A walk to Bray Head rewarded her with sweeping views of Puffin Island and the Skelligs, famous for their appearance in the Star Wars films. “One view was so similar to Gwbert & Cardigan Island it was unbelievable.”
That evening, Cath parked Scorch off-grid near Portmagee Cemetery and booked a table at The Bridge Bar, where she enjoyed Guinness and crab cakes before experiencing Irish set dancing. “The set dancing turned out to be brilliant—not at all like the drunken twmpaths I remember!”
Discover the Ring of Kerry
Learn about Valentia Island
Day 5: Killarney National Park and Rossbeigh Beach
“A lot less driving today but a helluva lot more steps—29,000, which equates to about 11 miles.”
Cath’s Exploring in a Free Spirit Campervan on Day 5 began with a stop at Rossbeigh Beach, a stunning stretch of sand perfect for a morning walk. Known for its dunes and colourful pebbles, Rossbeigh offers an idyllic escape from busier tourist spots.
From there, she headed to Killarney National Park, where Scorch was a convenient base for exploring this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Parking at Muckross House, a 19th-century mansion surrounded by gardens and lakes, Cath cracked on with a loop walk that included the Torc Waterfall and parts of the Kerry Way trail. “Up to Torc Waterfall then continued on a loop through the woods, picking up part of the Kerry Way.”
The park’s wildlife did not disappoint. “Today’s nature spots: hare before I left Portmagee, song thrush, red deer in a field, and a red squirrel in the woods.”
After a long day of walking, Cath returned to a lively campsite near Killarney, where she was greeted by the chaos of the Rally of the Lakes.
‘’The place is chock full of petrol heads with lowered cars, souped up engines & nitrate exploding all time. Madness. Still roaring up & down the road as I type this at 9pm. (I have earplugs’’)
While earplugs were essential, the hospitality of the campsite owner left a lasting impression. “To top it off he gave me some washing powder. Being kind goes a long way.”
Learn more about Killarney National Park
Freedom in Every Moment
From navigating narrow mountain passes to finding quiet moments on the beach, the freedom of travelling in Scorch defined Cath’s experience.
The campervan allowed her to park close to nature, enjoy off-grid adventures, and adapt her plans as the journey unfolded.
Whether indulging in chocolate at the Skellig Factory or hiking through Killarney, Scorch provided the comfort and flexibility to make every day extraordinary.
Practical Tips for Days 3–5
- Parking and Campsites: Glengarriff Campsite is an excellent base for exploring the Beara Peninsula, while Muckross House offers parking for those visiting Killarney National Park.
- Local Recommendations: Don’t miss the Skellig Chocolate Factory or the Dzogchen Beara Buddhist Centre for unique treats and stunning views.
- Wildlife Highlights: Keep binoculars handy for spotting seals, eagles, and even basking sharks.
- Driving Advice: The Healy Pass and Skellig Ring require cautious driving, but the views are worth it.
Day 6 Teaser: Exploring the Dingle Peninsula
Next, Cath and Scorch journey to the Dingle Peninsula, where ancient beehive huts, lively pubs, and dolphin safaris await.
Don’t miss Blog 3 for tales of adventure along one of Ireland’s most scenic coastal routes.
Your Free Spirit Campervan Adventure Awaits
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With a Free Spirit campervan like Scorch, you can experience the freedom to travel at your own pace.
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